Salycuminol, a unique achievement of Vevy Europe research
From willow to cumin interpreting nature–SALYCUMINOL -A unique achievement of Vevy Europe research
Following 24 years of experience on lipophilic esters of hydroxyacids, Salycuminol has been developed for an innovative treatment of dry, reddened, itchy and aging skin not age-related. From a cosmetic point of view debating about anti-aging is nonsense being skin economic management or skin momentum the right interpretation of appearance.
Various are the tests performed to study skin physiological reaction following Salycuminol (cuminyl salicylate, the most natural salicylic ester) application. First is the histochemical evaluation of the activity of acid phosphatases, enzymes involved in the Cuminum Cyminum; Umbelliferae. Cumin or Cummin; Cumin; Cumino keratinization process, mainly transforming pre-keratin into mature keratin. Increased activity of acid phosphatases improves skin keratinization, and consequently the role of filaggrin (protein binding together keratin fibers and later degraded completely to free aminoacids forming NMF), leading to a greater skin barrier capacity and healthier skin appearance. Subsequently it was assayed the inhibition of epidermal ornithine decarboxylase activity (ODC), which is a biochemical marker of cell proliferation. Indeed it is the first enzyme in the biosynthetic pathway for polyamines, polycationic molecules which lately interact with nucleic acids stabilizing the structure of both DNA and RNA, controlling protein synthesis and RNA transcription. Intracellular levels of polyamines and their biosynthetic enzymes are found to correlate with cellular growth; ODC activity is quite customarily high in rapid proliferating cells. Decrement of ODC activity shows a slowing down of the cell proliferation rate oppositely to hyperstimulation induced by alpha-hydroxyacids, as always associated to skin irritation.
It could he assumed ODC inhibition, being related to the associated decline of cyclooxygenase activity, as responsible for Salycuminol local, and nonsystemic, anti-inflammatory acivity also demonstrated in two distinct toxicological tests
A third study dealt with protection against peroxidative breakdown of biomembrane lipids proved using cell cultures
Salycuminol has an antilipoperoxidation activity capable to establish an effective skin economic management, i.e. an active prevention from premature skin aging.
The UV absorption, which has its peak at 310 nm in the UVB range, widens its protective role against skin dehydration due to exposure to UV rays. It is a support to Salycuminol ability to intervene in a negative skin momentum. Salycuminol cannot be used as a sunscreen because it does not guarantee the properties required for UV filters.
Conversely to skin treatments with hydroxyacids, Salycuminol does not stimulate cell hyperproliferation producing a modified cycle of keratinocytes maturation and being also a sign of irritation.
On the contrary Salycuminol is a local anti-inflammatory agent and assures a physiological maturation of keratinocytes from the basal layer to the stratum corneum ultimately achieving an effective protective barrier.